Time Travel to Faifo: The Living Museum of Hoi An

Hoi An, previously known as Faifo, a captivating city nestled on the coast of Central Vietnam, is a treasure trove of historical and cultural significance. With a rich tapestry woven from centuries of diverse influences, Hoi An’s unique charm and character have earned it a place on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. This article delves into the city’s former glory, vibrant culture, and the indelible mark it has left on Southeast Asia.

Hoi An (formerly Faifo) in the late 18th Century
As depicted by John Barrow in “A voyage to Cochinchina in the years 1792 and 1793”

The Cham Era: The Birth of a Trading Powerhouse

The early history of Hoi An is intertwined with the Chams, the indigenous people of the ancient kingdom of Champa. From the 2nd to 15th centuries, the Chams wielded control over the lucrative spice trade, amassing significant wealth and influence. Between the 7th and 10th centuries, the strategic location of Hoi An made it an essential port-city for the Chams, marking the beginnings of its prominence as a trade hub.

The Vietnamese Period: A Flourishing Trade Port

Hoi An’s destiny took a dramatic turn in 1471 when Emperor Lê Thánh Tông of Đại Việt annexed Champa. The city transitioned into Vietnamese territory, also serving as the capital of Quảng Nam Province.

In 1535, Portuguese explorer António de Faria attempted to establish a major trading centre in the port village of Faifo. Subsequently, under the governance of the influential Nguyễn clan since 1570, Hoi An began to flourish as a bustling trade port. The Nguyễn lords, far more commercially inclined than their northern counterparts, the Trịnh lords, fostered an environment conducive to trade, propelling Hoi An to become the most vital trade port on the South China sea.

Depiction of the Port Town of Hoi An and its Bridge
Watercolor Engraving “Vue d’un pont de la Cochinchine” by Jacques Chereau (~1750)

The city was a melting pot of cultures, with a distinct Japanese settlement across the iconic “Japanese Bridge”, a unique 16th-17th century structure adorned with a Buddhist temple. By the 18th century, Hoi An was regarded by Chinese and Japanese merchants as the premier trading destination in Southeast Asia.

Japanese Bridge TodayPhoto by Bruno de Hogues

A Decline and Resurgence

The late 18th century marked a period of decline for Hoi An due to the collapse of the Nguyễn rule and the Tây Sơn Rebellion. The city was significantly damaged during a battle in 1775 and lost its status as a primary trade port when exclusive trade rights were granted to the port town of Đà Nẵng. This, coupled with the silting up of the river mouth, led to Hoi An’s transformation into a quiet backwater.

Polish Architect Kazimierz Kwiatkowski (1944-1997), is known for reviving Hoi An and Reintroducing it to the World
Image Source: Bao Quang Nam

However, in the 1990s, the city experienced a renaissance led by Polish architect and conservator, Kazimierz Kwiatkowski. His efforts revitalised Hoi An, restoring its historical splendour and reintroducing it to the world.

Hoi An Today: A Living Museum

Today, Hoi An is a vibrant tourist attraction renowned for its history, traditional architecture, and crafts. The city’s rich heritage is palpable in its well-preserved ancient buildings and bustling markets filled with ceramics and textiles. Modern bars, hotels, and resorts have sprung up in and around Hoi An, harmoniously coexisting with the city’s historical roots.

The port mouth and boats, once the lifeblood of Hoi An’s trade, now serve a dual role in fishing and tourism. The city continues to enchant visitors with its timeless charm, inviting them to immerse themselves in a living museum where the past and present seamlessly blend.

The story of Hoi An is one of resilience and transformation, a testament to the enduring allure of this historic city. It stands as a fascinating testament to the diverse cultural influences that have shaped Southeast Asia, and a symbol of Vietnam’s rich heritage.

Old houses with tourists and restaurants today
Image by xiquinhosilva (2017)